Failing Windscreen Wipers

25 04 2007

Lada trouble again! A full day of faithful wiping the snow off our windscreen was too much for the wipers and they gave up. It took about three hours to fix the mechanics in some car repair park in Kars. A helpful Turkish man who spoke English and Dutch was there to guide us to the repair shop – and next to a hotel, restaurant, bar…. so all good after all. The place is still freezing cold though, so hopefully Lada will forgive us for taking her over high altitude mountain passes again today on our way to the Georgian border.

First lookAt the repair shop wıth our guide


24 04 2007

Dos dınges was cold! With the power cuts came snow, with snow came the slushy streets and it took us a while to fınd our way to next destinatıon Ani. Fortunately there was more çay waiting for us at petrol statıons and commando posts. The military presence is getting pretty strong here, being close to both the Iranian border and Armenia (border firmly shut) but hospitality doesn’t suffer from this. After Lada recovered from the initial snow she had her fırst river crossing! Proud parents we are. So anyway, after some off-road short cuts we arrived ın a totally deserted Ani. A rather unheimlich experience given the place is a ghosttown already. Ani ıs an old Armenıan cıty (or whats left of ıt anyway) in a Turkish military zone; you can see today’s Armenia across the river from there. Many Gothic style churches (the Armenians were the first to convert to Christianity) of over 1000 years old. A bit surreal to wander around all these old ruins with nothing there but snow, some horses and barbed wire fences.

More info on Ani:

Cıry gateHore ın AniChurchChurch wıth dark cloudsDavıd ın WindowLada parked outside city wall

Shortcut to Ani:
Dirt road 1Dirt road 2River crossing

Let it snow, let it snow

24 04 2007

Poor man in the snowPacked carHouse in snowRoad ıs becomıng worse and worseNo vıewRoad cleared up

But as always we never lost faith
Jesus LeftJesus Rıght

Dos dinges

23 04 2007

Today we arrived in Dogabayazıt, still in Turkish Kurdistan, and we had our fırst power cuts. And we want some food now so more later!

Snowy roadSnow on our wayIs it still goiıngTakıng pıcturesArrarat in dark cloudsOld thingieDavıd and old thingieOld thingie with a view

Fawlty Towers in Ahlat

22 04 2007

So we drove all the way to Van Lake near the Iranian border. Beautiful views indeed. But then. The hotel for the night looked nice and well decorated but a closer look learned it was completely run down (one could recall a stay some time ago in one of these Sovjet style hotels…). Every curtain, table cloth, napkin, and anything else really that is remotely related to textile had sıgaret burn marks in them.
Om arrival we were kindly offered some tea. After returning from a brief inspection of what was supposed to be our room (not made up yet, someone else was still in there but this was just a matter of ‘a few minutes’ time), the hotel staff had grabbed our tea. Gone! Bummer! The hotel staff seemed to be in continuous heated debate with eachother, and when we passed by they hushed ‘Tourist’ and went sillent. The girl at the reception desk kept saying ‘Passport’ and ‘Dollars’ when we even attempted to come close to the desk, which after a while we sımply tried to avoid. After these two words she mumbled some Turkish (?) phrases of what we thought meant something along the lınes of ‘sorry that are the only English words İ know’. But this was one of the most friendly translations we came up with.

When in the evening asking, only for the second time, if someone could fix the light in our room – it isn’t easy to shower in the dark etc – one of the Turkish guests came down the stairs cryıng. All the staff attentıon went his way, leavıng us alone with the torch light. Maybe the guy was crying to get his light fıxed too. Who knows. Not that we followed his example. After half an hour three guys came to fix the light. It took another half an hour and some balancing on two chairs to get some light in the room. But luckily they used a 100 watt bulb, so we got our light – killing all the atmosphere of the nicely decorated room, with all its burn marks on every item of decoration. Such a shame.

After the heavily needed shower (see previous post on dirt cheap hotel) we went to the restaurant that was now packed with Turkish guests that all had one big mission for the night: getting pissed. With pissed we don’t mean your normal binge drink on a Frıday after work but getting Really Pissed. This in combination with some traditional Turkish live music and some occasionally dancing men holding hands while another guy then throws a shit load of tissues in the air (is that normal custom in Turkey? Can we please consult the audience on this?). All in all it was a very entertaining night of which no pictures, sorry about that…

We do have pictures of some old town, just another mosque, a graveyard and snow. But then who is interested in the dull stories behind those.

Snowy roadCastle ın the snowSnow on mountaın 3Some dull ThombGraveyardOld ladıes prayıng or somethıng

Snowcapped mountains in Kurdistan

22 04 2007

Arriving late in Kovancılar, on the way between Sıvas and Bingol in East Turkey. Found a dirt cheap hotel that was, you guessed it, indeed dırty. But it was dark already, we had been driving for a long time and were gettıng a bit tired of all the potholes in the roads (not to mention the dogs, sheep and human herds under the impression that crossing the road at night is a perfectly healthy way of managıng life).

Half the town spoke German because many locals had worked there. We also got an update on the current state of play of the Dutch football teams (what can one say? It’s a global world and the lotto is played everywhere). In a local shop where we had to drink a coke (a welcome alternative to the çay that we were offered along the way) we had our fırst lecture in Kurdish independency struggle. It’s a strange world out here – many friendly army guys at the military checkpoints every few kilometres (we never get checked and after some ‘merhaba’ we can drive straight through… so far!) while the local Kurds have a slightly different story to tell. Not something to elaborate on here perhaps. It’s ındependence day on the 23rd and many celebrations to report on later… For now some pıctures!

Road aheadSnow on mountaınSnow on mountaın 2Lada waitingMore snowTree

Rock & Roll in Sivas

20 04 2007

At the end of the day we arrived in this smoggy crowded Turkish town called Sivas, some few hundred km east of Ankara. Which does have some old mosques (and some historıcal relevance for Ataturk’s declaration of the natıon in 1919 – yes we took a picture of the statue in an attempt the please the locals) but apart from that is not the most attractive place on the planet. But you have to sleep somewhere and this was it. So we parked the car in an underground carpark (sophisticated!) and went looking for a hotel while draggıng our bags through the crowd. We ended up in a very modern and stylish looking hotel, bargained the price down as only Hollanders can do and started exploring. And hurray – we found this great Baklava place just across the road. David feels we put too much informatıon in our posts about the food so we are not saying anything here about our long search for a restaurant that was not occupied by a male-only populatıon (of course we failed again so tried to hide in a corner of some dodgy kebab place pretending we felt totally at ease with all the onlooking young Turkish lads). After this great kebab experience things could only get better. We went for a beer, as you do, and found a place (something with Efes beer written all over – always a good sıgn) and were lucky to stumble across this Turkish cover band that played all kind of hard core and metal musıc. Metallica, Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Chris Rea, that kinda work… Nice.

Here a clip of Nirvana’s Smells Like Teen Spirit. Performed on our request (they kept asking what we wanted to hear and lost inspiratıon in the end):

Smells like Teen Spirit